Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

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Expand view Topic review: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Frank » Sun Apr 25, 2021 11:01 am

PolackTony wrote: Sun Apr 25, 2021 10:11 am
Frank wrote: Sun Apr 25, 2021 9:42 am Some pizza places deep dish is Pan Pizza, which is another version of Pizza. Burts and Pequad are pan style pizzas. Pan, stuffed and Chicago style deep dish are all made and cooked in a deep dish. These styles kind of burst on the scene all at once in the Chicago Suburbs in around 1973. Some of the food critics and even pizza restaurants use the term deep dish for all 3 of these styles. So you could want to order what is commonly called chicago style deep dish like what is served at Unos and Malnatis and at certain places it will be a different style, called pan pizza. The line between Stuffed and Chicago style deep dish is really blurry and are often lumped together. I had just been looking this up recently. Giordanos stuffed pizza is technically a different style than say Malnatis or Uno, but is lumped in as a Chicago style stuffed deep dish.
Needless to say, the nuances were lost on me for much of my life, as I rarely ever ate any of these variants of deep dish growing up in Chicago. Pizza by default was Chicago-style thin crust; deep dish/stuffed/etc was like its own category of food.
Ive seen and heard people on the internet an tv say chicago style deep dish is not pizza. But with me being introduced to a different type of home made pizza in my youth and it was called pizza by people of strong Italian ancestry, than in my book its pizza. Its a different style of pizza, but its pizza. I know I have the proof that its pizza. They can think what they want, but its just another style of pizza. With that said over 95% of the pizza Ive ate is Chicago Cut thin. Theres no shortage of great pizza places in Chicagland area. Havnt tried the Neopoltan and the fired pizza that is popping up more and more here.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by PolackTony » Sun Apr 25, 2021 10:11 am

Frank wrote: Sun Apr 25, 2021 9:42 am Some pizza places deep dish is Pan Pizza, which is another version of Pizza. Burts and Pequad are pan style pizzas. Pan, stuffed and Chicago style deep dish are all made and cooked in a deep dish. These styles kind of burst on the scene all at once in the Chicago Suburbs in around 1973. Some of the food critics and even pizza restaurants use the term deep dish for all 3 of these styles. So you could want to order what is commonly called chicago style deep dish like what is served at Unos and Malnatis and at certain places it will be a different style, called pan pizza. The line between Stuffed and Chicago style deep dish is really blurry and are often lumped together. I had just been looking this up recently. Giordanos stuffed pizza is technically a different style than say Malnatis or Uno, but is lumped in as a Chicago style stuffed deep dish.
Needless to say, the nuances were lost on me for much of my life, as I rarely ever ate any of these variants of deep dish growing up in Chicago. Pizza by default was Chicago-style thin crust; deep dish/stuffed/etc was like its own category of food.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Frank » Sun Apr 25, 2021 9:42 am

Some pizza places deep dish is Pan Pizza, which is another version of Pizza. Burts and Pequad are pan style pizzas. Pan, stuffed and Chicago style deep dish are all made and cooked in a deep dish. These styles kind of burst on the scene all at once in the Chicago Suburbs in around 1973. Some of the food critics and even pizza restaurants use the term deep dish for all 3 of these styles. So you could want to order what is commonly called chicago style deep dish like what is served at Unos and Malnatis and at certain places it will be a different style, called pan pizza. The line between Stuffed and Chicago style deep dish is really blurry and are often lumped together. I had just been looking this up recently. Giordanos stuffed pizza is technically a different style than say Malnatis or Uno, but is lumped in as a Chicago style stuffed deep dish.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Villain » Sun Apr 25, 2021 3:08 am

Antiliar wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 2:50 pm
Etna wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:19 am I always thought the deep dish/sicilian pizza was basically an Americanized sfincione
Interesting article about the origin of sfincione. Originated in Bagheria and tomatoes weren't added until after World War II when prices dropped. Tomatoes, first grown in South and Central America, were small, golden yellow, and considered ornamentals. They were thought to be poisonous and weren't considered food in Italy (apparently) until the late 1600s. Even then, tomatoes weren't commonly eaten. At any rate, it looks like the sfincione with tomatoes developed too late to be the ancestor of deep dish pizza.
https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/italia ... efresh_ce=
Thats the style i was previously talking about regarding my memories from eastern Sicily.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by PolackTony » Sat Apr 24, 2021 7:26 pm

Antiliar wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 2:50 pm
Etna wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:19 am I always thought the deep dish/sicilian pizza was basically an Americanized sfincione
Interesting article about the origin of sfincione. Originated in Bagheria and tomatoes weren't added until after World War II when prices dropped. Tomatoes, first grown in South and Central America, were small, golden yellow, and considered ornamentals. They were thought to be poisonous and weren't considered food in Italy (apparently) until the late 1600s. Even then, tomatoes weren't commonly eaten. At any rate, it looks like the sfincione with tomatoes developed too late to be the ancestor of deep dish pizza.
https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/italia ... efresh_ce=

From the September 21, 2016 edition of the Chicago Tribune, Rocco Palese invented the Chicago stuffed pizza when he worked at Guy's Pizza with his wife around 1971. The first ad for stuffed pizza was for Guy's Pizza in March 1974. According to Annunziata (Nancy), his widow, Rocco invented it on his own, apparently experimenting like many cooks do. She said it was nothing like what they used to eat in Italy. So basically, it was invented in the USA by an Italian immigrant using his creative ingenuity.
Good find on the sfincione. Given that chronology and the fact that both of the Italians responsible for its initial popularization are northerners, I don’t think there’s any evidence to conclude that it had Sicilian origins.

While the 2016 article has Annunziata Palese stating that the stuffed pizza was a de novo invention, I believe that others have stated that Rocco Palese himself credited it to a re-adaptation of his mother’s Easter scarcedda recipe. Either way, it shows clear similarities to scarcedda, and as Frank has noted other Lucani in Chicago may have been making a very similar pizza for Easter independent of the commercial version.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Antiliar » Sat Apr 24, 2021 2:50 pm

Etna wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:19 am I always thought the deep dish/sicilian pizza was basically an Americanized sfincione
Interesting article about the origin of sfincione. Originated in Bagheria and tomatoes weren't added until after World War II when prices dropped. Tomatoes, first grown in South and Central America, were small, golden yellow, and considered ornamentals. They were thought to be poisonous and weren't considered food in Italy (apparently) until the late 1600s. Even then, tomatoes weren't commonly eaten. At any rate, it looks like the sfincione with tomatoes developed too late to be the ancestor of deep dish pizza.
https://www.lacucinaitaliana.com/italia ... efresh_ce=

From the September 21, 2016 edition of the Chicago Tribune, Rocco Palese invented the Chicago stuffed pizza when he worked at Guy's Pizza with his wife around 1971. The first ad for stuffed pizza was for Guy's Pizza in March 1974. According to Annunziata (Nancy), his widow, Rocco invented it on his own, apparently experimenting like many cooks do. She said it was nothing like what they used to eat in Italy. So basically, it was invented in the USA by an Italian immigrant using his creative ingenuity.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Frank » Sat Apr 24, 2021 2:12 pm

PolackTony wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 1:05 pm
Frank wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 12:37 pm
Antiliar wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:16 am I looked up "deep dish pizza" on Newspapers.com and the earliest entry goes to 1955. It was a combination pizza and hamburger casserole. Most of the next entries are for deep dish tuna pizza. Tuna? Appears to have started in the South. Ike Sewell, founder of Pizzeria Uno, claimed he invented Chicago-style deep dish in 1945. The chef who worked there Adolph "Rudy" Malnati, claimed to be the actual inventor. Whatever the case, it appears to be an American invention. Stuffed pizza seems very similar.
My Mom who was half Italian had relatives that were first or second generation Italians. At Easter they made, what they called Pizza, and it was a Stuffed Pizza. This would have been pre Giordanos. Sauce was not on top of pizza, but was served on the side. The first time I seen it, I was kind of puzzled. Up until then I was only familier with Chicago Cut thin crust. These people were still very Italian and if they called it pizza thats good enough for me. It tasted fantastic, as all her cooking was. I believe it had ricotta and mozzarella for cheesebut dont know for a fact. Sausage too.
Yes, that’s clearly a variety of scarcedda/scarcella, Lucano/Pugliese stuffed Easter pizza. Rocco Palese I’m sure saw the already growing popularity of deep dish and decided to tweak his mother’s scarcedda recipe accordingly (eg putting sauce on top).

Traditional recipes that I’ve seen for scarcedda have it filled with a mixture of ricotta (or other cheese), soppressata (or other meat), tomatoes, and often eggs.
Thanks for the info. These people have pasted a while back. Should of picked their brain about history and recipes back when I had a chance to. This cousin of my Moms grew up in Chicago and was taken off the streets by my Grandfather, who set him up straight in legitimate business. His wife was a great cook. She said her Mother taught her to cook. He was technically my second cousin, but we called him uncle, because of a big age differance.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by PolackTony » Sat Apr 24, 2021 1:05 pm

Frank wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 12:37 pm
Antiliar wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:16 am I looked up "deep dish pizza" on Newspapers.com and the earliest entry goes to 1955. It was a combination pizza and hamburger casserole. Most of the next entries are for deep dish tuna pizza. Tuna? Appears to have started in the South. Ike Sewell, founder of Pizzeria Uno, claimed he invented Chicago-style deep dish in 1945. The chef who worked there Adolph "Rudy" Malnati, claimed to be the actual inventor. Whatever the case, it appears to be an American invention. Stuffed pizza seems very similar.
My Mom who was half Italian had relatives that were first or second generation Italians. At Easter they made, what they called Pizza, and it was a Stuffed Pizza. This would have been pre Giordanos. Sauce was not on top of pizza, but was served on the side. The first time I seen it, I was kind of puzzled. Up until then I was only familier with Chicago Cut thin crust. These people were still very Italian and if they called it pizza thats good enough for me. It tasted fantastic, as all her cooking was. I believe it had ricotta and mozzarella for cheesebut dont know for a fact. Sausage too.
Yes, that’s clearly a variety of scarcedda/scarcella, Lucano/Pugliese stuffed Easter pizza. Rocco Palese I’m sure saw the already growing popularity of deep dish and decided to tweak his mother’s scarcedda recipe accordingly (eg putting sauce on top).

Traditional recipes that I’ve seen for scarcedda have it filled with a mixture of ricotta (or other cheese), soppressata (or other meat), tomatoes, and often eggs.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by PolackTony » Sat Apr 24, 2021 1:00 pm

Etna wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:19 am I always thought the deep dish/sicilian pizza was basically an Americanized sfincione
Yes, this was the story as I understand it about deep dish. As Antilliar already pointed out, the commercialized form of deep dish that was popularized in Chicago is credited to “Pizzeria Riccardo” (later renamed Pizzeria Zuni) founded by Chicago restauranteur and chef Riccardo Novaretti and Texan entrepreneur Ike Sewell. The cook, who many credit with the actual recipe, was Riccardo/Uno was Rudy Malnati. But both Malnati and Novaretti were northern Italian immigrants. As Novaretti already was well known in Chicago for running a very popular Italian restaurant, they may have come across some version of Sicilian pizza and decided to adapt it. The sauce on top is another clue that it may have had an origin in sfincione.

In Chicago we also have a more traditional sfincione, called “bakery pizza” that can only be found in a few old school Italian bakeries, like D’Amato’s on Grand Ave (incidentally I believe that the D’Amato family were probably related to Grand Ave crew associate Phil Amato).

As noted above, “stuffed pizza” was an entirely separate thing brought by families from Basilicata and Puglia and then adapted to capitalize on the growing “deep dish” trend.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Frank » Sat Apr 24, 2021 12:39 pm

Ttoo.They came from Brienza

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Frank » Sat Apr 24, 2021 12:37 pm

Antiliar wrote: Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:16 am I looked up "deep dish pizza" on Newspapers.com and the earliest entry goes to 1955. It was a combination pizza and hamburger casserole. Most of the next entries are for deep dish tuna pizza. Tuna? Appears to have started in the South. Ike Sewell, founder of Pizzeria Uno, claimed he invented Chicago-style deep dish in 1945. The chef who worked there Adolph "Rudy" Malnati, claimed to be the actual inventor. Whatever the case, it appears to be an American invention. Stuffed pizza seems very similar.
My Mom who was half Italian had relatives that were first or second generation Italians. At Easter they made, what they called Pizza, and it was a Stuffed Pizza. This would have been pre Giordanos. Sauce was not on top of pizza, but was served on the side. The first time I seen it, I was kind of puzzled. Up until then I was only familier with Chicago Cut thin crust. These people were still very Italian and if they called it pizza thats good enough for me. It tasted fantastic, as all her cooking was. I believe it had ricotta and mozzarella for cheesebut dont know for a fact. Sausage too.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Frank » Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:44 am

PolackTony wrote: Fri Apr 23, 2021 8:15 pm Bear with me people, as I wasn’t sure if I should post this in the “General” or “Mafia” forum lol.

Chicago received a major contingent of immigrants from the Basilicata and Puglia regions. These migration links began in the late 19th century and continue to this day. While Chicago has received many settlers from Metropolitan Bari, many also arrived in the Windy City from dirt poor and isolated comunes in the rugged mountains of the interior of the Italian south. These contingents of contadini , and their modern descendants, naturally brought their recipes with them, leaving a lasting mark on Chicago’s food culture. I strongly believe that the typical Chicago thin crust style is derived from “pizza a la Barese/Pugliese” (rolled out with a pin into a thin sheet unlike the hand-tossed Neapolitan-style pizza that caught on in NYC).

A more recent contribution is the distinctive Chicago “stuffed pizza” — with a second layer of dough over the cheese and meat — popularized mainly by the Giordano’s chain. This style was first developed by Lucani immigrants Rocco and Annunziata Palese in the early 1970s, who developed the recipe from older family recipes for scarcedda/scarcella, a variety of rustic “pizza” in the form of a layered pie stuffed with meat, cheese, tomatoes, and eggs served for Easter in Basilicata and Puglia. The Boglio brothers, northern Italian immigrants from Torino, probably ripped off the recipe from the Paleses and founded the Giordano’s chain (it’s been alleged that one of the Boglio worked for the Paleses before starting Giordano’s)

Apparently part of why the Paleses were not able to compete with the much more successful Boglios was that three of the Palese locations were bombed in the early 1980s. Being Chicago, the press naturally suspected that these bombings were mob related. The Outfit of course long had major interests in restaurants, food processing and distribution, and hospitality. Incidentally, the more famous (at least to outsiders) Chicago “deep dish” style pizza also had close Outfit connections, with the influential Gino’s East pizzeria founded by Outfit associates Fred Bartoli and George LoVerde (the latter brother of made Chicago member Frank “Butch” LoVerde).

In 1984, disgruntled former Palese franchisee Biaggio Cirrincione was convicted for the bombings. Given the MO, I still wonder if there was more to the story then a simple business dispute. Cirrincione was likely a Sicilian immigrant, and of course there seems to have been a notable influx of Sicilian OC operatives in Chicago and Rockford in the 1970s and ‘80s, so I wonder also if Cirrincione had any connections.

Anyone ever come across any info on this?

https://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/c ... story.html
Never knew that 3 locations of Nancys Pizza were bombed. Great post. Also didnt know the connection between Ginos and the Outfit. There's a Bartoli pizza too. Never had Nancys, but their getting pretty widespread. Not surprising about mob connections to Chicagoland Pizza

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Etna » Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:19 am

I always thought the deep dish/sicilian pizza was basically an Americanized sfincione

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Antiliar » Sat Apr 24, 2021 11:16 am

I looked up "deep dish pizza" on Newspapers.com and the earliest entry goes to 1955. It was a combination pizza and hamburger casserole. Most of the next entries are for deep dish tuna pizza. Tuna? Appears to have started in the South. Ike Sewell, founder of Pizzeria Uno, claimed he invented Chicago-style deep dish in 1945. The chef who worked there Adolph "Rudy" Malnati, claimed to be the actual inventor. Whatever the case, it appears to be an American invention. Stuffed pizza seems very similar.

Re: Lucano Origins of Chicago-Style “Stuffed Pizza” and Possible Outfit Links

by Villain » Sat Apr 24, 2021 1:18 am

I remember eastern Sicilians (Catania and Taormina) also mainly had a very thick pizza and in fact we were able to find thin type of pizza only in restaurants. They even had deep dish pizza with huge roles of sausages and french fries on top of it lol. In Palermo was different, meaning we were able to find thin pizza almost everywhere.

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